Prompt No. 2a: Identikit (or Utilizing Bourdieu’s Habitus to Shift the Power Behind Prep Style)
This is a supplement to two installments on prep. The first tackles prep style; the second, prep lifestyle. The title is taken from a single off of Radiohead’s 2016 release “Moon-Shaped Pool”, which is featured on the playlist accompanying this edition.
I messed up.
In re-reading the last edition of Prompt, I realized I left a gaping hole in the discussion on prep style. No, I do not want to give Horse Country Mom energy, accessorizing Loro Piana with Julie Vos coral and bees. But more important than my vanity and fear of appearing Forty (TM), I want to “complicate” prep style — create static in its communication of power and privilege. By coupling the style’s mainstays with elements of grunge, vintage, minimalist and streetwear, a far more complex image emerges.
In short, I want to confuse the hell out of rich, racist, white people using a language they understand and can’t ignore: their own heritage, prestige, and luxury brands. (1)
Confusion! Complication! Yes, Blackness and Black hair helps tremendously, but pay attention to the personal style.
As a more diverse group gains economic capital — or at the very least an awareness of what constitutes “good taste”, an unfortunate trend has emerged: a full-throated embrace of the habitus that insulates the upper class.
Now is probably a good time to explain French social philosopher Pierre Bourdieu’s concept of habitus. Now, stay with me…
Pierre Bourdieu (1930-2002) examined “the dynamics of power in society, especially the diverse and subtle ways in which power is transferred and social order is maintained within and across generations.”(2) In his best known work, Distinction, he argues that “those with high social and cultural capital (or status) are the arbiters of taste and that one's own particular taste comes from the milieu and social class in which one lives—that is, one's field. An individual’s almost innate knowledge of how to live in and navigate that field is what he termed habitus.”(3)
Tackling the intersection of status and taste is not new; however, what is is our witnessing the messy push and pull of maintaining the status quo via the For You Page.
Hermes springs to mind. With a heritage steeped in high-quality wrought harness and bridles, the French luxury house became synonymous with good taste as the company naturally became a facet of the equestrian set. Albeit far from inconspicuous now, with seemingly everyone clamoring to establish a text-based relationship with an “SA”, (4) or simply spending gobs on questionable counterfeits, social media removed one of the many barriers to obtaining what amounts to an incredibly expensive old lady purse.
This matters because of Hermes’ status within the upper class habitus. Accepting or aligning oneself to a particular habitus brings social and cultural capital. Whether consciously or not, wearers of the bags essentially “borrow” its social and cultural capital. It then stands to reason why Hermes bags — in particular the Kelly and Birkin are so popular amongst TikTok influencers. In wearing the bag, the influencer borrows its capital, aligning themselves with the habitus of the rich, therefore attempting to solidify themselves as arbiters of good taste.
Beautiful execution of a preppy-classic style hybrid but no complication. No confusion. Habitus is safe. Boo, hiss.
Orphaned Header: Prep style is inherently rooted in power, classic style is not.
If not for the price, its influx in popularity among those outside of the habitus (read: middle to upper middle class influencers) would cause a decline in its value as the truly wealthy react to protect and reinforce itself. What makes this example particularly interesting/sad/hilarious is that without power or prestige of their own, the wearer will see little to no return on their investment, socially. So many have borrowed against the power of the bags that it communicates nothing more than earning potential and tenacity.
This has occurred with several preppy heritage, prestige and luxury brands: Barbour, L.L. Bean, Cartier, Tiffany & Co. — all have experienced a surge in popularity at some point over the past two decades as younger generations age into the luxury market with an understanding of what it all means, complicating what “money” looks like, globally.
The next step is to add real style to it all. If you still look like everyone else — if you still align with and present the standard look of it all, you’re not exhibiting good taste.
Just elitism.
This spring, A Sunday Journal examines our attachment to the stories we tell — what we believe luxury communicates, whether millennials have killed the guest and writer’s room, and how model minority status makes for brutal observations.
Until then, there’s Prompt — the accompanying biweekly newsletter.
ACQUISITIONS.
ACQUISITIONS.
Buzzfeed News reported this week that Spring Depression is real, citing a whole host of causes — from the end of the school year to body-image issues attached to wearing less clothing. To combat this, let’s take a look at some breathtakingly perfect transitional collections.
But first, play this Prompt’s playlist for the full effect.
There have been two editions of Acquisitions without a single mention of Lauren Manoogian. That changes with 2a. The “SS23” collection is breathtaking; however, the way ASJ favorite, Vestige, styles it takes it to a dangerously wearable level. The Structure Jacket paired with the Wind Pants, S/S Crewneck and Stud Band Sandal makes an airtight case for spending nearly $2,000 on the entire look.
Similarly, Uniqlo U is another immensely wearable, must-have collection from the incomparable duo behind Lemaire. Known for its “simplicity, elegance, and practicality”, the French brand has taken off after decades-long fits and starts. The collaboration with Uniqlo makes a tremendous amount of sense and the result benefits both the price-conscious and fashion-forward set, as it (actually) resembles the brand’s luxury identity both in silhouette and palate.
[Look 1 can be found here and Look 2 here. Throw on the trench from Look 1 to achieve a look similar to the Manoogian pieces styled above.]
NOTE: Acquisitions is a glimpse into items that have caught our attention. None of this is necessary to live a beautifully curated life.
Sidebar: Google Lemaire co-designer Sarah-Linh Tran. To thank me, send virtual flowers to my inbox.
(A Rare) Epilogue
This week Law Roach announced his retirement. The news, one TikTok post on the issue, and countless negative comments later and I feel compelled to end this edition having drawn a few connections between the Fashion Industry and race.
Many Black commenters stated that black people should abandoned the status quo of fashion to build our own structures, a notion that inherently functions outside of our capitalist society and the existing habitus. It essentially asks our best and brightest to forgo mainstream financial, cultural and social capital for the unknown. I will continue to pull at this thread in the hopes of answering whether it is theoretically possible. My instinct says no — there presently aren’t enough resources to fully abandon the broader fashion landscape; however, I think Roach’s announcement and subsequent interviews, the sheer number of black celebrities dressed in black designers this award season, and more indicates a very real desire to do so.
Footnotes (not using proper annotations, please do not sue; you get the point).
No, these are not the same thing but that’s a conversation for another day
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierre\_Bourdieu
https://www.britannica.com/biography/Pierre-Bourdieu
Ugh. “Sales Associate” - this phrase grates my nerves.
